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Imported compost in blocks
All around the world growers can receive phase 3 blocks. Especially in countries where no or just some raw materials to make compost are available, importing phase 3 blocks is than the easiest way to start mushroom farms.
Transport of blocks should always be done with cooling trucks/containers with also enough O2. A lack of oxygen during transport can cause severe damage to the mycelium and I saw arriving trucks full of Phase 3 compost with such a high CO2 that the mycelium in the compost never recovered completely after filling. The temperature during transport is kept on 2 to 5 degrees C to stop the mycelium from growing and generating heat in the blocks. That is a challenge sometimes.
When the compost blocks arrive at the farm, they should be stored in a cool room on 2 degrees C. Also make sure to have fresh air going into the cool room, especially if stored for a longer period. To ensure you always have enough stock, a few weeks of compost must be available as transport can always be delayed and can disturb a consistent growing cycle.
Before filling/casing the compost with a head filler it should be brought up to temperature. When you fill and case the same day you want to heat the compost up before filling, if you case the next day, you have more time to heat the compost up inside the grow room, until the casing day but as sometimes blocks are still frozen you need to get the blocks defrosted to make sure the blocks break open at filling. It is no problem to have frozen blocks, you just need to make sure they go through the filling machine and get mixed in. Depending on the climate at your location you normally get the compost out of the fridge the night before filling to give it the chance to heat up, ideally between 15 and 18 degrees C, so after filling the growing process can start. In extreme high outside temperatures, you can heat the compost up in shadowed places. In cold environments you must find a place to defrost the blocks and fill them into the growing rooms and heat the compost up there.
If you fill without a filling machine and place the blocks directly in the growing room, it is easier to warm them up inside the room. After filling remove the plastic and warm the compost up slowly. Do not go too fast to make sure the compost does not rise too fast, and you are not able to stop it anymore from heating up too much.
The yield and quality with imported phase 3 blocks can be good if managed the right way. Temperature and O2 level are key factors as well as watering. Be careful to overwater at the start when the temperatures are still low but wait for some good activity.
Good luck.
Erik de Groot
Global Agriculture Services
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And then it's summer!
Europe is now at the time of the year summer will burst out. And every year the same growing problems occur at this time, getting worse and worse every year.
Summers seem to get hotter and it is time to adapt before real growing problems are there. There are a number of things growers can do but of course a good cooling system is a must. Well calculated, fitting the circumstances of your own country. But even the best cooling system will not cover everything. If we take the summer temperature last year in Holland at 42° nobody has a cooling system which will handle these extreme temperatures in our country.
If at the same moment also the relative humidity is high it is not only cooling but also the heating that counts. And that brings me to the first mistake many growers make. In summer switch of the heating system. Its hot enough outside, I do not need heating. Wrong!!!
De-humidification only works if the cooling can work in combination with a bit of heating. So, by switching of the heating the system can make the air dryer anymore. And you need dry air to cool a hot room. The easiest way to cool a growing room is to give water to the casing soil. The best way is to give many small quantities up to 2 litres. That can be evaporated again. Spread the watering over 24 hours. The dry air coming into the room will take care of the evaporation and will help cooling the growing room. Keep the casing soil wet but the floor as dry as possible. That is why I do not close the room completely if the outside is hot but dry. It is possible to use air which is much higher than the compost temperature as long as the incoming air is dryer than the air in the room.
In the mollier diagram one can calculate how much fresh air is necessary to absorb the evaporated water in the room. And for that cooling by evaporation you only need a few litres of water extra. No extravagant quantities as some growers tend to do. An extra help will be some mobile coolers on the farm. They can be placed into the room just before the heat surge is starting. The price of such a mobile cooler is a lot lower than the costs of losing a room.But in the end, judging a room is important. If compost is active and the C/N ration is relatively high one can expect activity. It is of outmost importance that cooling starts before the surge starts. Once a compost is going up it is hard or impossible to stop it.
Dirty bunker pipes
Not hard to imagine that reduced air flow going into the compost is not good for the quality of the compost. To maintain high-quality compost, it's crucial to keep the pipes under the bunker floor clean and free from blockages. Blocked pipes can lead to water accumulation on the bunker floor as the water will not drain, and create anaerobic conditions, harming the composting process. Set up a routine to clean all the pipes thoroughly every three months. Use a hose to flush out any dirt and debris, ensuring proper airflow throughout the composting process.
Ensuring thorough cleaning of the blocked pipes is crucial, as simply flushing them with water from front to back may not be sufficient. Despite water passing through, dirt can still accumulate inside the pipes. Achieving a satisfactory result involves reaching the end of the pipes with a hose and utilizing back pressure to dislodge any remaining debris. Attached below is a picture showing completely blocked pipes and the dirt extracted from some of them. This visual evidence underscores the necessity of meticulous cleaning to maintain optimal functioning of the composting process.
When pipes get blocked in composting systems, some issues can pop up. You might see wet spots and areas without enough air (anaerobic zones) in the compost. This happens because the airflow needed for composting gets messed
up. When pipes are blocked, air can't move properly, making some parts of the compost lack oxygen. It will also be visible in the pressure on the bunker floor being reduced. All this isn't good for composting and can cause bad smells and slow decomposition.
It's important to be safe when dealing with blocked pipes in composting systems. Wear a good face mask to protect yourself from harmful gases that can build up in blocked pipes over time. Also, make sure to keep the area well-ventilated and follow safety rules to avoid accidents.
Erik de Groot
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https://www.mushroomsconsultant.com
About the mushroom production process
Phase 1: Making Fresh Compost
The process of mushroom farming starts with the creation of fresh compost. A balanced mixture of different raw materials, including hay, straw, and poultry manure, is used to create the compost. Proper moisture, temperature, and aeration are key to bringing about the desired chemical reactions within the compost.
Phase 2: Filling the Bunker and Tunnel
Once the compost is created, it is filled into the bunkers or tunnels where they undergo pasteurization and conditioning. The compost temperature is closely monitored in this phase to ensure that it remains within the ideal range between 56 and 60 degrees Celsius.
Phase 3: Mixing Spawn in the Compost
After the pasteurization and conditioning, the compost is ready for the addition of spawn. The spawn is mixed with the compost in one-fourth or one-third ratios to foster the spawn run phase. The spawn run typically takes around 2-3 weeks, where it colonizes the compost with mycelium.
Phase 4: Emptying the Tunnel and Filling the Growing Room
Once the spawn run phase is completed successfully, the next step is to empty the tunnel and transfer the mycelium-colonized compost to the grower room. The compost is evenly distributed and leveled out to prepare for the onset of mushroom growth.
Phase 5: Mushroom Development and Harvesting
During the next phase, the mushroom pins grow, rapidly turning into mature mushrooms. The mushrooms' development requires strict regulation of the temperature, humidity, and air ventilation to create a conducive environment for growth.
Once the mushrooms reach full maturity, they are carefully harvested by hand. The mushroom picking process requires a high degree of precision to ensure that only mature mushrooms are harvested.
Phase 6: Cook-out, Emptying, and Cleaning
After the harvest, an essential step in the mushroom farming process involves emptying the growing room and cleaning the equipment to ensure sanitation and prevent contamination. The mushrooms are then sent out for packaging, shipping, and sale.
In conclusion, mushroom farming is a complex process that requires attention to detail at every step. From fresh compost to harvesting and sanitation, each step plays a crucial role in producing high-quality mushrooms. By following these steps closely, mushroom cultivators can achieve optimal results and contribute to the ever-growing demand for fresh and delicious mushrooms.
Blog by Fred Musc
Water, the ongoing discussion
If one wants to start a discussion with a grower (or with a consultant), start talking about watering.
How much, when and what watering method.
To make any sense though, you first have to define the period. There is watering on casing soil and watering over mushrooms and between flushes.
This blog is about watering on the casing soil during the incubation period. The water given in that period is to bring the casing soil up to the maximum moisture level and to keep the compost at the right moisture.
A good phase 3 compost at the moment of casing will be around 60% in moisture. For white strains that can be up to 3% higher, brown strains prefer 1 or 2% drier. It is not possible to bring the compost to a much higher moisture level by watering it after filling. It is possible to give water into the compost but that will be free water which has to disappear during the fructification period.
2 up to 4 litres of water can be given into the compost at filling or later but that should be the maximum. Even if it is necessary to cool the compost. This can better be done by giving water into the casing and let it evaporate with fresh air and circulation.
Casing soil itself can handle up to 7 litres per m² plus the water that was originally in the casing. To be sure, we talk about a casing containing white and black peat.
More than 7 litres will evaporate, go into the compost or down the drain.
Considering that the evaporation can be around 2 litres per m² per day, the loss with evaporation is about 10 litres. If you count the loss of dripping, the water staying in the compost and the evaporation you come to a figure of about 25 litres of water. In practical situations this means a total amount of water between 20 and 30 litres average. Depending on the farm and the time of the year. Growing drier often means a loss of production and growing a lot wetter means problems in growing, mainly in the outgrow of mushrooms.
Another thing to watch for is the watering method. Make sure that the pressure of the water onto the casing is not too high. Too many times I see a casing with a damaged surface which will give problems in the evaporation.
Every system has a different pressure and if you are not sure, ask the manufacturer. Regularly cleaning of the nozzles is something will help maintaining the right pressure and the right adjustment of the watering trees, looking at distance and height according to the casing level.
Keep watering but do not take it over the top!!
Recognise, isolate and control
These three principles are the base of disease control on a mushroom farm. To my opinion there is no farm that has not a spot of disease somewhere.
But depending on what is done it will develop into a serious problem or it will stay a hidden time bomb.
If a problem is discovered it is of crucial importance that is recognised. To make sure that will happen training of people on the farm and especially pickers is needed. They are your eyes on the farm.
They need to know the most common diseases and especially in a young stage. Many places of dry bubble are not recognised and are only seen if the disease is in an almost incurable stadium. The small wart on a mushroom or grey spot is often missed.
The same goes for insects. Many growers do not know the difference between a phorid and a sciarid. Although the damage pattern is totally different, so Is the threshold where it really starts costing production. Also the cure is completely different.
Example: growers use diflubenzuron against phorids.
It is only active against sciarids.
If the disease is recognised then it should be isolated. It can be covered on the spot but the most important is to simply keep all doors closed. Check filters and door seals. If a room is infected, make sure the infection is contained in that one room and does not spread on the farm.
After the isolation the disease can be treated. If the spot is detected in an early stage one can do with just a sport treatment. If it is more the whole room should be taken on.
But too often the infection spreads and the whole farm must be treated. Generally room treatment for a full cycle with an overlap of two or three rooms to break the lifecycle of the disease.
So, just a test:
Look at the photo and spot the phorid. Or is it a sciarid?
