Mycogone or wet bubble is making its appearance again on many farms. Growers are looking for all different chemical solutions and are gearing up hygiene measures. Most of the times too late. Because chemicals also do a lot of damage to the crop and the schedule often is simply too short to give the right effect.
And as for gearing up hygienic measures, one real big grower once said to me:
If I have no disease I am really worried because nobody is paying attention anymore to hygiene. If on the other hand I dó have a disease everyone is doing what the can.
For Mycogone it is important to look at the origin and take that away. It is a fungus growing in soil, sand or rotting materials. That is why many growers point at the casing soil. Not really correct because it does not grow in deep dug peat because the ph is too low. But casing soil polluted with sand will be infected so it is better to look at transport, the act of casing the room and the circumstances around that.
The spores of Mycogone are not airborne by themselves. The need a vector of taxi. In most of the cases this is dust, animals, people or insects. Especially dust is a factor that is hard to control.
The moving of soil in the vicinity of the room that you are filling is a guarantee for infection. So is the harvesting of agricultural crops near the farm if the wind is blowing the dust to your farm.
So keeping the room that you are filling and the casing soil out of the wind to avoid dust is already a good thing. So is cleaning of the trucks before they enter the filling area. And flushing with plenty of water may be more effective than using a disinfectant.
At the same time keep the whole area wet so dust cannot fly around.
For growers who use casing soil in plastic bags, do not bring them into the room or wash them before use. Plastic is electro static and attracts dust.
It is a myth by the way that Mycogone comes in with the compost. It cannot grow in phase 3 compost.
The following point is people. If the filling team walks through grass or sand during filling, again that is a major failure. So is not wearing clean clothes at the moment of filing. Also do not let the filing team have their coffee break in the same canteen used by the pickers. When they return to the job they may be covered in spores.
A thing harder to control is insects. If you have an infection of sciarids or phorids on the farm an outbreak of bubble is likely to happen. But one of the next blogs will be about these creatures.
One general remark: keep the farm and the vicinity clean at all times. Free from rests of casing and compost but also free from paper, cardboard and other mess. This will help to fight all types of disease.
Europe is now at the time of the year summer will burst out. And every year the same growing problems occur at this time, getting worse and worse every year. Summers seem to get hotter and it is time to adapt before real growing problems are there. There are a number of things growers can do but of course a good cooling system is a must. Well calculated, fitting the circumstances of your own country. But even the best cooling system will not cover everything. If we take the summer temperature last year in Holland at 42° nobody has a cooling system which will handle these extreme temperatures in our country.
If at the same moment also the relative humidity is high it is not only cooling but also the heating that counts. And that brings me to the first mistake many growers make. In summer switch of the heating system. Its hot enough outside, I do not need heating. Wrong!!!
De-humidification only works if the cooling can work in combination with a bit of heating. So, by switching of the heating the system can make the air dryer anymore. And you need dry air to cool a hot room. The easiest way to cool a growing room is to give water to the casing soil. The best way is to give many small quantities up to 2 litres. That can be evaporated again. Spread the watering over 24 hours. The dry air coming into the room will take care of the evaporation and will help cooling the growing room. Keep the casing soil wet but the floor as dry as possible. That is why I do not close the room completely if the outside is hot but dry. It is possible to use air which is much higher than the compost temperature as long as the incoming air is dryer than the air in the room.
In the mollier diagram one can calculate how much fresh air is necessary to absorb the evaporated water in the room. And for that cooling by evaporation you only need a few litres of water extra. No extravagant quantities as some growers tend to do. An extra help will be some mobile coolers on the farm. They can be placed into the room just before the heat surge is starting. The price of such a mobile cooler is a lot lower than the costs of losing a room.But in the end, judging a room is important. If compost is active and the C/N ration is relatively high one can expect activity. It is of outmost importance that cooling starts before the surge starts. Once a compost is going up it is hard or impossible to stop it.
If one wants to start a discussion with a grower (or with a consultant), start talking about watering.
How much, when and what watering method.
To make any sense though, you first have to define the period. There is watering on casing soil and watering over mushrooms and between flushes.
This blog is about watering on the casing soil during the incubation period. The water given in that period is to bring the casing soil up to the maximum moisture level and to keep the compost at the right moisture.
A good phase 3 compost at the moment of casing will be around 60% in moisture. For white strains that can be up to 3% higher, brown strains prefer 1 or 2% drier. It is not possible to bring the compost to a much higher moisture level by watering it after filling. It is possible to give water into the compost but that will be free water which has to disappear during the fructification period.
2 up to 4 litres of water can be given into the compost at filling or later but that should be the maximum. Even if it is necessary to cool the compost. This can better be done by giving water into the casing and let it evaporate with fresh air and circulation.
Casing soil itself can handle up to 7 litres per m² plus the water that was originally in the casing. To be sure, we talk about a casing containing white and black peat.
More than 7 litres will evaporate, go into the compost or down the drain.
Considering that the evaporation can be around 2 litres per m² per day, the loss with evaporation is about 10 litres. If you count the loss of dripping, the water staying in the compost and the evaporation you come to a figure of about 25 litres of water. In practical situations this means a total amount of water between 20 and 30 litres average. Depending on the farm and the time of the year. Growing drier often means a loss of production and growing a lot wetter means problems in growing, mainly in the outgrow of mushrooms.
Another thing to watch for is the watering method. Make sure that the pressure of the water onto the casing is not too high. Too many times I see a casing with a damaged surface which will give problems in the evaporation.
Every system has a different pressure and if you are not sure, ask the manufacturer. Regularly cleaning of the nozzles is something will help maintaining the right pressure and the right adjustment of the watering trees, looking at distance and height according to the casing level.
Keep watering but do not take it over the top!!
An appropriate title for a blog written on Easter Monday.
Normally the 7th day is a day of rest. Good for people after a week of working but not always good if mushrooms take a rest. Read: they stop growing. This can happen during the fructification and if the reaction of the grower is too slow, the flush grows out to be too small.
Fructification is split into two sections. 4 to 5 days for making the mushrooms or forming the primordia. The second part is roughly from day 5 till the start of the first flush. During the first part RH, ambient temperature and CO2 are the main parameters to control the number of primordia. Compost temperature is for me not that important at that time. After day 5 the RH is lowered to let the primordia grow out to be mushrooms. The CO2 is dropped slowly and we also start dropping the temperature to reach 17.5° C ambient temperature at the start of the flush (my favourite temperature to work with).
On day 7 one can see mushrooms developing in the size of 2 to 5 millimetres. And then this phenomenon can occur. You look during your morning check and everything looks good. The next day, nothing has happened. General reaction is waiting. But if you look carefully, in most of the cases the room is not taking enough fresh air. CO2 is okay, RH is okay, air temperature is okay and the compost temperature is declining. If the minimum fresh air setting is too low, the room can have a lack of oxygen and mushrooms just stop developing. Simplest thing to do is to drop the CO2 setting to 800 ppm for a couple of hours. To avoid this however and the best way to handle this, is to make sure that the minimum fresh air setting is around 25%. Then the climate unit will always use enough fresh air and mushrooms keep growing. By the way, this happens mostly with strains which tend to give bigger mushrooms. Because they already tend to give fewer mushrooms.
After the last water during the incubation in the casing soil, the grower wants the mycelium to grow onto the surface.
To ensure a good recovery of the mycelium in this period the right settings for the room climate are essential.
An RH at a minimum of 95%. A very slow air speed, if possible zero and an adequate room temperature. That room temperature should be as close to the optimum for vegetative growth as possible. That optimum temperature is 25° C to 26° C.
This means often a room temperature of around 21° as a minimum.
Then the mycelium has the right conditions to grow onto the surface.
The next question is: how high do I let it grow ?
Higher means better control of the number of primordia, so no surprises about the number of mushrooms growing out. Higher also means easier picking so a higher pick rate. Another positive experience is that clustering is easier avoided.
But the big dis-advantage of having the mycelium higher on the surface is that the climate conditions have to be perfect. The influence of the climate onto the mycelium and the primordia is bigger. So one moment of for instance too low RH means that you will lose primordia.
Deeper mycelium is also easier to stagger the mushrooms so that is an advantage too. Another point is the fact if the grower can stop the mycelium when it grows too high. Overlay as that is called makes the outgrow of primordia more difficult. They come from underneath the blanket of mycelium.
So what determines the choice?
Both ways have their pro’s and con’s.
But for me the crucial point to choose a way is the technical capacity of the farm and the experience of the grower. If you are able to stop the mycelium at all times, still create the stagger and have perfect control of the environmental conditions, grow white.
If you are not sure of all this, grow deeper into the surface of the casing soil. So grow blacker.
Generally blacker is safer.
The targets for a mushroom farm are amongst others:
• Meet market requirements
• Good quality at the lowest possible harvesting costs
To meet the market requirements the farm needs about the same amount of mushrooms every day, seven days per week. Maybe a bit more on one day than the other depending on sales. This means generally picking seven days per week.
In most of the countries picking in the weekend is expensive so the target is often to avoid that when possible, or have mushrooms which are easy to pick. To have a relatively low cost price for picking it also helps to have more or less the same amount of mushrooms per day. So the planning of the picking and the calculation of the number is pickers needed is easier. To achieve all this a good stagger of the mushrooms is an absolute must. This starts with the choice of casing soil and the way the casing is treated.
A fine structured and perfectly finished layer of casing results often in too many mushrooms and a picking period of only 3 to 4 days in the first flush. So choosing a rough casing with an open finish of the surface helps in staggering the first flush.
Then the next important tool is the fructification or pinning. Take time to cool down the room. Take CO2 and room temperature down gradually over a period of at least 11 days. In the beginning the room temperature can be kept around 20° C for about 2 to 3 days. The compost will follow after a few days anyway.
Build in steps that are the same every day and keep humidity at the setpoint required. 95% for the first 4 days of fructification and from there a drop of 1% per day. Make sure that the band is set narrow on the RH because a deviation of just 2% can cost you the staggering you need so badly. So by taking time in this period, time and money can be saved during the picking again.
Just remember, the more un-even it looks the better. And do not look for too many mushrooms.
Imagine the third picking day of a first flush. In the morning the pickers are picking a beautiful mushroom. Around noon the mushrooms are starting to lose colour and 3 hours later they start growing like mad. Stems are stretching and caps are getting soft.
Does that sound familiar?
In that case look at the casing. If you start checking the casing it is very well possible that it is getting warmer. The differential between ambient temperature and casing temperature is gone. This means that the evaporation has almost or completely stopped. In other words: the casing soil is too dry.
Watering at that moment is too late. If water is applied at this moment the mushrooms will lose the colour completely and bacterial blotch is the next problem.
To solve that problem the grower has to look at the next room where the next flush is coming. In the last days of outgrow water can be given on mushrooms that have the size between a pea and a cherry. Generally, that is about 3 days before the start of the harvest of the first flush. The amount of water can be around 2 litres per m².
Just one watering can be enough to solve this problem.
But only if the rest of the circumstances are okay. A good open and heavy casing soil which can hold that water.
And good selective picking so the outgrow of the flush during the harvest is more gradual and not explosive.
It is possible to detect the moment when the casing is drying out by using an infrared thermometer. If the casing soil temperature is getting up, the casing dries out. The right watering moment is just before that point.
These three principles are the base of disease control on a mushroom farm. To my opinion there is no farm that has not a spot of disease somewhere.
But depending on what is done it will develop into a serious problem or it will stay a hidden time bomb.
If a problem is discovered it is of crucial importance that is recognised. To make sure that will happen training of people on the farm and especially pickers is needed. They are your eyes on the farm.
They need to know the most common diseases and especially in a young stage. Many places of dry bubble are not recognised and are only seen if the disease is in an almost incurable stadium. The small wart on a mushroom or grey spot is often missed.
The same goes for insects. Many growers do not know the difference between a phorid and a sciarid. Although the damage pattern is totally different, so Is the threshold where it really starts costing production. Also the cure is completely different.
Example: growers use diflubenzuron against phorids.
It is only active against sciarids.
If the disease is recognised then it should be isolated. It can be covered on the spot but the most important is to simply keep all doors closed. Check filters and door seals. If a room is infected, make sure the infection is contained in that one room and does not spread on the farm.
After the isolation the disease can be treated. If the spot is detected in an early stage one can do with just a sport treatment. If it is more the whole room should be taken on.
But too often the infection spreads and the whole farm must be treated. Generally room treatment for a full cycle with an overlap of two or three rooms to break the lifecycle of the disease.
So, just a test:
Look at the photo and spot the phorid. Or is it a sciarid?
A sentence often heard in logistical companies but even more nowadays in mushroom growing.
Due to short schedules, labour management and supermarket requirements timing in the growing of mushrooms is essential.
If mushrooms are not in time one can loose part of a flush. The compost for the next room is ordered. Supermarkets need the mushrooms on the shelf on a set time and for the organisation of the picking force a strict timing is needed. Even if it is just to stay away from picking in the weekends to avoid high labour costs.
To ensure a right start of the first flush on the desired time many factors are involved.
The activity of the compost is one of them. An active compost or an inactive compost can easily make a difference of a few days in the start of the first flush. A corrective measure there can be supplementing. And for all the choice of supplement and the quantity. Especially in combination with the right type of casing soil this has great influence. No need to say that both compost and casing soil need to have a good stability. The combination of those two can be seen in the amount of caccing and the deepness of the casing layer.
Water on casing soil is the next determining factor. It is well known that water can stop the mycelium from growing. A factor that can be used to time flushes.
A very strong tool is the ruffling machine. By ruffling the grower can time flushes even more accurate. Generally ruffling is done between days 3 and 6 after casing the room. Later ruffling often also means a slower recovery because older mycelium has a slower re-start. Ruffling is done a lot by farms who have very strong time requirements by the supermarkets. A negative aspect of the ruffling can be that the staggering of the flushes is more difficult. But this can be overcome by changes in the climate setpoints during fructification.
So just looking at timing of crops, the grower has many options. Unfortunately this also means enough options to make mistakes but isn’t this what makes mushroom growing interesting?
Henk van Gerwen
Too often there are problems with second flushes. The first flush is rather normal but not extra-ordinary. The problem starts showing on the third harvesting day of that first flush by loss of quality and second flushes do not come back the way they should.
If the casing soil of those rooms is examined closely then it will appear that whatever water is given, it is still very dry. All water given after the first flush seems to be gone before the flush has even started.
Most of the times there is too much mycelium in that casing soil. A problem what was already there before the start of the first flush but really shows in the second.
At that moment the problem cannot be solved anymore. One has to look for solutions before even the fructification has started.
Solutions lay in the choice of casing soil, the amount of water on that casing soil during incubation, the way of watering and in the climate control during casing soil incubation.
Too much mycelium results in too fine strands of mycelium and therefore a lack of water transport to the mushrooms. Mycelium dries out very fast and too much mycelium forms a crust together with the casing soil. What is needed is a thick, white type of mycelium. Only this can guarantee strong, heavy and white mushrooms. Especially in second flushes.
Henk van Gerwen